João Carlos is a municipal police officer in Porto and spends his days ensuring the safety of others. Off-duty, he swaps his uniform for a backpack and has walked the Camino de Santiago several times. He cherishes memories of them all, but some have stayed with him more than others!
In this interview, we talk about what it feels like to leave from afar, about the stories the Camino de Santiago gave him, and about the perspective of someone who, even on vacation, can’t help but notice everything.
How did you get the idea to do the Camino de Santiago?
It was by chance. During the summer holidays, in 2009 or 2010, I had no plans and, one day, a news report about the Camino de Santiago came on. I got curious and decided to go.
What paths have you taken outside of Portugal? Where did each one begin?
I did the French Way, starting from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port (a French village at the foot of the Pyrenees), and the English Way, starting from Ferrol, in Galicia. I also did the route to Finisterra and Muxía, passing through Olveiroa, and many others.
But let me tell you something: the Way begins wherever you want it to. It can begin in Portugal or in France, but it always ends in Santiago.
Why did these journeys, which began far from home, affect him so deeply?
All paths leave their mark, some for one reason, others for another. There isn’t one that has left me indifferent. Let me warn you: it becomes an addiction, but a great addiction!
Is there a particular memory from each Camino that you cherish?
Yes, there are several. Each route gave me a special memory, but one of the most memorable was on the French Way.
On the very first day, I met an Asian family: the father, the mother, and two daughters, one of whom has autism. At the time, my wife was pregnant with our first child, and early in the pregnancy, we had been told there was a 2% chance he would be born with autism.
A few days later, I stopped seeing that family. When I saw them again, we started talking and I told them my story. The father hugged me and told me that everything would be alright.
This happened in the morning. That same day, my wife had one of her last check-ups and sent me a picture of the ultrasound: the baby was giving a thumbs-up. Yes, everything was fine. I met the couple again and the father gave me another huge hug. A huge hug that I still feel today.
Do you plan to do the Camino with your children someday?
Yesterday was already too late. I will definitely do the Camino with my family.
Can you turn off the “police gaze” while walking?
It never switches off. I already had a situation in Olveiroa , we had to throw out some delinquents who were causing trouble. There was another situation on the train back. Nothing extraordinary, at least in my eyes.
In your opinion, is the Camino de Santiago a safe route?
Absolutely safe. The pilgrims help each other and there’s always someone nearby. Plus, they all carry a walking stick.
Have you ever had to help another pilgrim in a difficult situation?
Yes, several times. We once found a pilgrim without water about 1 km from a village, in a valley. I’ve also helped pilgrims in wheelchairs and many with blisters on their feet.
But the case I remember best is that of a person who had left home on foot in the Netherlands. About 50 km from Santiago de Compostela, he injured his calf and told us he was going to give up right there. We put some of our liniment on him, it stung, but he managed to reach Santiago.
Read also:10 tips to avoid getting blisters on your feet during the Camino de Santiago
What precautions would you recommend to someone traveling alone for the first time?
Go. Walk, respect your own pace, and smile. Take care of your feet: roughly every hour, take a break, drink water, and moisturize your feet. They are what will take you to Santiago de Compostela.
What advice would you give to a Portuguese person who wants to start the Camino outside of Portugal?
Take the train, the plane, or hitchhike, and go. When you really want to do the Camino de Santiago, you don’t need much advice: you just do it.
What was the most useless (or most ridiculous) thing you ever carried in your backpack?
On my first Camino, a 6-day trek, much of it on sand, I took 6 pairs of boxers, 6 pairs of socks, 6 t-shirts, a sweater for going out at night, a huge beach towel, 4 pairs of shorts, and so on. In short, pure stupidity.
Today I know that this is enough:
- 3 technical t-shirts;
- 2 pairs of briefs or swim trunks;
- 3 pairs of socks;
- 1 shirt;
- 1 poncho for the rain;
- 2 pairs of shorts;
- safety pins, for hanging clothes to dry in the backpack.
Read also:What to pack in your backpack for the Camino de Santiago
Whatever your reason for setting off (faith, personal challenge, or curiosity), João Carlos’s advice is simple: go. Preparation is important, but the hardest step is actually deciding to begin.
Choose the route that resonates most with you, pack your bag calmly, and don’t forget your pilgrim’s credential, the document where you collect stamps along the way.
And who knows? Maybe one day you’ll be the one with a story to tell.
All photographs in this article are by João Carlos.
